Besenwirtschaft A different type of Gemütlichkeit awaits you at Besen. It is a wonderful way to meet up with friends. A Besenwirtschaft, also known as a Strausswirtschaft, Strausse, Besenschänke or just plain Besen, is a seasonal wine tavern popular in the wine-growing areas of Germany.Most Besens are only open for a short period in late autumn and early winter. By law, they can be open for a maximum of 4 months. Some are now open for a short period in summer as well, as they are allowed to split their opening periods in two.Many establishments will hang a broom outside the building to indicate that they are open. The Besen is usually run by the Winzer ( Winery/ Wine farm owner) and offers simple food served with wine from the Winery.The decoration is mostly simple, traditional and rustic, with long wooden tables and chairs.People usually share a table with other patrons, and the maximum capacity is 40 people.You can buy bottles of wine to take home. Dishes At a Besen (Besenwirtschaft) you’ll find honest, seasonal food served simply — perfect with a glass of local wine. Typical dishes you might see on the menu (with brief explanations) are: Schlachtplatte – a hearty butcher’s platter (often a mix of cured and boiled meats such as blood sausage Blutwurst, boiled pork belly and liver sausage) served with sauerkraut or pickles. Kalbsbratwürste – veal sausages, usually served with rustic bread or a tangy Swabian potato salad (served at room temperature). Kesselfleisch mit Sauerkraut – sliced boiled pork (kettle-cooked) served with sauerkraut — simple, traditional and very filling. Griebenschmalzbrot – bread topped with griebenschmalz (rendered pork fat with cracklings) — rustic and flavourful. Liver dishes – often pan-fried liver or liver pâté, served with bread or potatoes. Bread with cheese – a simple, satisfying option (great with a dry local white). Schinkenbrot – bread topped with regional ham; straightforward and delicious. Maultaschen mit Kartoffelsalat – Swabian ravioli (Maultaschen) served with Kartoffelsalat (potato salad) — a regional favourite from Schwaben. Blaue Zipfel – bratwurst gently poached in a vinegar-onion broth (a Franconian speciality). Wurstsalat – shredded sausage and cheese salad, tangy and typically served cold. Weck, Worscht un Woi – literally “roll, sausage and wine” — a beloved regional combo in Rhenish Hesse and the Rheingau. Many Besenwirtschaften change their offerings depending on the season and what the vintner has on hand — expect simple, well-made comfort food meant to be enjoyed with friends and a bottle of locally produced wine. Wurstsalat Griebenschmalzbrot Schlachtplatte Dessert Maultaschen Drinks Just like the food, the drinks at a Besenwirtschaft are all about keeping things local, traditional, and true to the vintner’s craft. The focus is firmly on what comes from the vineyard — and a few select companions that pair beautifully with it. Wine only! By law, only wine and distilled spirits produced by the vintner may be served. Beer is strictly off the menu — this is wine country, after all. Coffee can also be offered, especially toward the end of the meal or on chilly evenings. Non-alcoholic options are required by law, though this does not include plain tap water. Expect grape juice or sparkling water instead. Depending on the season, you might find Most — often called “first wine.” It’s the sweet, unfiltered juice from freshly pressed grapes, the earliest stage of winemaking, and a delightful taste of what’s to come. In late summer and early autumn, many Besenwirtschaften also serve Federweißer — a fascinating in-between stage of winemaking. The term Federweißer refers to fermented grape must that hasn’t finished fermenting. Once the alcohol level reaches about 4–5%, it’s ready for the first sip. It’s cloudy from active yeast, lightly sparkling, and wonderfully fruity — sweet at first, but turning drier and more wine-like with each passing day. Pour it gently; it fizzes like it’s alive. Whether you prefer a crisp Riesling, a hearty Trollinger, or that first glass of young Federweißer, every drink at a Besen is a celebration of the vineyard’s own handiwork — fresh, honest, and full of character. Dessert Don’t expect fancy desserts at a Besenwirtschaft — the charm lies in its simplicity. So far, at every Besen I’ve visited, dessert was a humble yet delicious slice of fresh bread with homemade jam, known as Gsälzbrot. The word Gsälz comes from the Swabian dialect and usually refers to strawberry jam or marmalade — though depending on the season, you might also find plum, apricot, or cherry varieties. It’s the kind of dessert that perfectly fits the Besen spirit: homemade, unpretentious, and full of heart. Sometimes it’s served with a small glass of sweet wine or a sip of Schnaps — a simple ending to a meal that feels like it came straight from the vintner’s own kitchen. Atmosphere & Experience Stepping into a Besenwirtschaft feels less like going out to a restaurant and more like being invited into someone’s home — because, in a way, you are. The vintner’s courtyard or barn is transformed into a rustic tavern, filled with long wooden tables, clinking glasses, and the warm hum of conversation. There’s no polished service here, no printed menus — just handwritten chalkboards, the scent of home-cooked food, and wine poured straight from the vineyard you’re sitting in. Strangers share tables and end the evening as friends, often joined in laughter or a spontaneous song. It’s lively, informal, and utterly unpretentious — the kind of place where time slows down and the world feels a little softer around the edges. Just remember to bring cash, come early if you want a seat, and most importantly — come hungry and ready to toast to life’s simple pleasures. Regional differences Besenwirtschaften may share the same spirit, but they take on unique flavours across Germany’s wine regions. In Baden and Württemberg, they’re called Besen, while in Franconia, you’ll hear Heckenwirtschaft, and along the Rhine, it’s the Straußwirtschaft. Each reflects its local dialect, wine style, and traditions — from hearty Swabian dishes in the
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